Even before leaving New York, I knew that my South American food tour would be about more than what I could fit in my stomach. At one point I envisioned this blog as a food diary, but quickly realized that writing about three months worth of snacks, meals, and farm-to-plate policy wouldn't be fun for anyone. I may take some time to write about juicy steaks and out-of-this world ice cream, but otherwise you can expect to read more cultural commentary than culinary critique.
That said, I've been in Buenos Aires for two weeks going on two months, and my journal is filled with notes on this city's quirks. I don't care how cramped the transportation system is, there's a certain charm that seeps through. Buses only stop when hailed, and only close their doors once they've hit 20 miles an hour; late-night cabs run red lights, and mid-day subway rides can be tighter than the E train during rush hour.
Vendors and consumers alike squirrel away loose change as if the metal is worth more than the coin. Corner stores will refuse to break a two-peso note, citing a lack of 'monedas,' but then they'll charge 1.50 for a pack of gum. I don't actually know what they would do if I tried to buy anything requiring them to give me change. But I'm quickly becoming a hoarder myself, learning the tricks of the bill-coin trade that will simplify my life in this city.
All in all I'm settling in comfortably. I found an intensive Spanish course (que bueno!) and a fabulous apartment (muy lindo!) with a little dog (Rulote! Did you pee on my floor?! [My Spanish skills are limited.]) Soon enough I'll start posting pictures, but for now I'm off to dinner. It is, after all, almost 10 pm.
4 comments:
Weird, Somalia pooped on my couch yesterday. maybe it was a sign that she was somehow insinuating your found apartment and doggie "situation". We're here, trying to clear the snot from my nasal passage by all means possible, but then I just took a decongestant to end the fun.
Love, Con carin~o, Abby and Tiferet
Hello, Kushkush,
Glad to hear from you and to learn about Buenos Aires from you blog. Whose dog is the doggie? Did you hear the story about this guy who complains about his little dog peeing on the carpet? A friend advises him to rub the dog's nose on the carpet every time he pees, after which to throw the dog out through the window - to teach him not to pee on the carpet anymore. Two weeks later the friend inquires if the dog quit peeing on the carpet. "Nope" - says the owner - "but now, the dog rubs himself his nose on the wet carpet, and then jumps on his own through the window..."
Try to talk to the dog in Spanish. maybe the dog doesn't speak English. Love you. dad
Hey Dana,
Great post. Lookin forward to your next one.
Love, EYal
hola! i def remember literally not being able to buy things from stores because nobody has change. it's really silly. i also remember people pushing so hard to cram themselves onto the subte, as if they are pushing against inanimate objects and not people.
can't wait to see pics of your apartment! and feel lucky that ice cream melts, or else i would make you bring me back pounds of dulce de leche con brownie.
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